PARIS BOBO

Your one and only guide to the restaurants and bars of choice of the trendy Parisian bourgeois boheme

Posts tagged bar

Le Dauphin: the King’s firstborn

They say that France is a republic, but in Paris, many answer to a King by the name of Iñaki Aizpitarte. After the success of Le Chateaubriand (cf. 7/3/12), its offspring Le Dauphin is his new too-cool-to-be-true wine bar and restaurant. Located next door to its regal predecessor in the 11e, the decor is dominated by majestic white Carrara marble. With a fit out consisting of a few floor to ceiling mirrors, an island bar and some wooden tables and stools, Le Dauphin is suited to its trendy patrons. But noble bobos should know that the royal treatment does not end here – the tapas style menu, both varied and creative, is also befitting of monarchs. More affordable than its patriarch, 45 euros is the budget for a meal with wine. Call in advance if you want to book a table for the first service, or turn up around 9:30pm for the second, no-reservations coronation. Long live the King!

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Le Dauphin, 131 avenue Parmentier, 75011

01 55 28 78 88

Le Point Ephemere: Here to Stay?

They say all good things must come to an end. Le Point Ephémère, part bar/restaurant, part cultural super center in the bobolicious 10e, was conceived to respect this rule. But everyone who’s anyone knows rules are meant to be broken, and so it is that eight years on, Le Point Ephémère is still kicking it. Housed in an impressive brick and concrete dock style building covered in graffiti, Le Point Ephémère lies on the banks of the Canal Saint-Martin and is home to exhibitions, concerts and artist residences as well as a very down to earth watering hole and eatery. So down to earth in fact, you might find yourself sitting on the floor to enjoy your beer, served (un)cheerfully in a plastic cup. Be prepared to fight the hoard of trendy bohemian and arty types on a warm day – its perfect location canal side coupled with very reasonable prices (under 20 euros for a main and a glass of wine), makes Le Point Ephémère a serious contender for best outdoor terrace. Check it out bobos: nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Le Point Ephémère200 quai de Valmy, 75010

01 40 34 02 48

Back to the Future Chez Jeannette

It’s a good thing a leopard cannot change its spots, or we may never have lived to see Chez Jeannette. This ever so trendy bar/cafe in the animated rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis in the 10e, looks like it hasn’t changed a thing since 1950, despite its recent renovation. Modernity’s loss is our gain: [zinc bar + red satin lampshades + neon signs] x frayed, yellowing walls = a room full of snappy dressers. The food is reasonably priced at an average of 14 euros a main. For a slightly rougher version, try Le Sully down the road at number 13. The crowd is eclectic and the drinks are so cheap, they could be classified as social security benefits. Carpe Diem bobos!

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Chez Jeannette, 47 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 

01 47 70 30 89

Le Sully, 13 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010

01 77 10 74 70

Le Floreal: Cocktails and Dreams

This funky, hard to miss corner café, bar and bistro, not far from some Goncourt heavyweights in the 10e, is the latest venture from the team behind the hipster Chez Jeannette. The décor is a mix of 60’s retro, classic French bistro and the best of the 1980’s. The generous terrace is luring with its bright colour blocks and classic wicker furniture. Inside, it’s Formica tables, leather benches, individual table lamps and a colourful ceiling to contrast the warm wooden tones. My favourite touch: a neon “Cocktail” sign behind the bar, reminding us that once upon a time before Scientology and Oprah, Tom Cruise actually made good movies. The menu varies from burgers to lobster, average budget around 40 euros. If you want to keep up with the Joneses bobos, strike while Le Floréal is hot.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Le Floréal, 73 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75010

01 42 08 81 03


Le Chateaubriand: how fine it is to know a thing or two

If the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, le Chateaubriand is breaking hearts all over Paris. We had Great Expectations from this néo-bistro found in an unpretentious avenue in the 11e, whose name simultaneously depicts the father of Romanticism and a rather dandy bit of beef. I could tell you that the time-warp décor, so à la mode with its zinc bar, mosaic floors, dim lights and dark wood furniture creates a casual, somewhat nostalgic atmosphere. I could also tell you that the set menu at 55 euros, printed in black and white on an A4 piece of paper and probably photocopied, is the daily brainchild of a genius self-made chef of Basque origins. All these things are relevant, yes, but the truth is that you only need to know one thing. At Le Chateaubriand, I ate possibly the best dessert of my entire life. If you think that’s an exaggeration, ask the queue trying to get into the second seating because they missed out on a reservation. Sorry Molière, but we think bobos should live to eat.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Le Chateaubriand, 129 avenue Parmentier, 75011

01 43 57 45 95

Apocalypse Bobo at Mama Shelter

If Mama won’t come to bobo, then bobo must go to Mama. Mama Shelter: the funky hotel, bar and restaurant in the OMG-its-gritty-and-so-far-away-how-ever-will-we-manage-to-get-there-did-I-just-see-a-Porsche-pull-up? 20e. Mama Shelter is a bustling, quirky, rough and tough hub for the fashion conscious, designed by Philippe Starck. Four spaces to enjoy on the ground floor: a no reservations pizzeria with a long communal table (11 euros average), a more traditional, reservations necessary restaurant (around 35 euros for 2 courses), a square island cocktail bar (approx. 12 euros a pop) and a narrow private outdoor terrace, decorated in a deliberate mismatch of industrial, vintage and rock gangsta styles. The focus, a chalkboard ceiling covered in graffiti. The hotel rooms continue the contemporary theme and are a treat, if you’re into bed side lamp shades in the shape of batman’s face. I love the smell of chalk in the morning… smells like, victory.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Mama Shelter, 109 Rue de Bagnolet, 75020

01 43 48 45 45

Hotel Amour: l’amour dure toujours

 

Beigbeder might think that love lasts 3 years, but at Hotel Amour, it lasts at least 6, or one hour, depending on how you like to look at things. Opened in 2006, this boutique designer hotel in the 9e is still one of the places to be in Paris. Embracing its past life as a brothel, and reminding us that notwithstanding its hipster location we’re still in Pigalle, it’s one of the few hotels where you can book a room by the hour. If you like provocative but don’t have anyone to provoke, there’s always the restaurant/bar, a destination in itself. Fitted out with 1950’s style furniture, the décor is understated (red booths, dim lights, mirrors) with the exception of a few erotic photos and the trendsetters lining the tables. And yet Hotel Amour has another card up its sleeve: a leafy internal courtyard - coveted in Paris - perfect for a summer brunch, in fact, a summer anything. Budget around 40 euros for traditional bistro fare, unless you’re hoping for a dangerous liaison. But please, don’t go all Glenn Close on us.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Hotel Amour, 8 rue de Navarin, 75009

01 48 78 31 80 

Buena onda at Candelaria

Meet Candelaria, the taqueria in the upper Marais that is bringing authentic tortillas to the discerning Parisian bobo. There’s an air of exclusivity at this tiny establishment, housing a small communal table, narrow counter and genuine Mexican accents. The décor is minimalist, some might even call it sterile, but all that glitters is not gold - the proof is in the quesadilla. As if that wasn’t enough to write home about, there’s a cocktail den hidden behind an unassuming white door by the kitchen: push through to go from Mexico DF to Playa del Carmen, figuratively speaking of course. The bar is seductive with its exposed wooden beams, stone walls and candles, and feels very private. Watch out for the Guêpe Verte, a delicious cocktail made with chili infused tequila and cucumbers. At 11 euros a pop, it’s going to be one pricey, spicy evening. Que pasa güey? Candelaria, that’s what. 

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Candelaria, 52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003

01 42 74 41 28

Au Passage is not De Passage

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. A notion dear to the crew behind the Caves and Pères Populaires (in the 17e and 20e respectively), successfully applied to their business model. Their latest venture, Au Passage, is built upon the tradition of its predecessors. A canteen/bar where shabby is synonymous with chic and the hobos have turned into bobos, tucked away in a narrow alley in the 11e that you’re unlikely to hazard upon by simple chance. Au Passage has joined the wave of Parisian bistros offering tapas style dining, and they’re doing it with a talented kitchen team. At an average price of 8 euros a plate, Au Passage is making good quality produce accessible, and encouraging that conviviality around a meal we could only envy once upon a time about our endearing Spanish neighbours. Strike while the iron is hot bobos, and check out the New Kids on the Alley.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Au Passage, 1 bis, passage Saint-Sébastien, 75011

01 43 55 07 52

Le Carillon: be there with bells on

Le Carillon is an old school café and bar in the 10e, without the bells and whistles (pun intended) of some of its Canal Saint Martin neighbours. The authentic, no frills approach of Le Carillon is exactly what drives Parisians there, and the reason why some have made it their local HQ. A popular bobo hangout, there’s not enough room to swing a cat on a Saturday night, but who swings a cat anyway. Prices for beer and wine are reasonable, though when it came to the mixed drinks, they varied slightly depending on the bar tender. The crowd is clearly more boBO than BObo, don’t expect just pretty faces. This place is a gem - being at Le Carillon is like running into an old friend and realising that some things never change. Amen to that.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Le Carillon, 18 Rue Alibert, 75010

01 42 39 81 88

Grazie: Tu Vuo Fa L’Americano?

 

They say when in Paris, do as the Parisians do. But what happens when the Parisians would rather do like somebody else? Well, Grazie. If Naples and Tribeca were two people (or restaurants capable of reproduction), Grazie would be their illegitimate love child. There’s nothing much French about this hybrid pizzeria/cocktail bar, except its location in the Marais. Grazie is a magnet for cool Parisians, and the attraction is no surprise. Firstly, a pizza is to a cocktail (or in our case, a few…) what a nutella crêpe is to a Saturday night out in Pigalle at 3am - one delicious lifesaver. Add to the mix a fabulous New York industrial loft style décor, where bottles are displayed in wooden crates and the walls look more like the inside of a bomb shelter, and you have a winning combination. Pizzas range from 8-19 euros and cocktails hover around 12. Vespa over to Grazie, just remember, the early bobo catches the peacock.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Grazie, 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003  

01 42 78 11 96

Hotel Particulier: Particularly Good

Ding Dong! The witch is dead. But magic, thankfully, is not. And it can be found here, at the exclusive Hotel Particulier. Hidden in the picture perfect Montmartre, you’d be forgiven for consulting Google maps several times to find your way. Seek out the Witch’s Rock – this is a passage, not a potion – and follow it down to the black iron gates. Once inside, a lush, secret garden (landscaped by the man behind the renovated gardens at the Elysée and Tuileries no less) and an imposing white mansion await you. The garden is set up with wrought iron tables and chairs, nestled within the foliage, lit at night by candelabra. When we were last there, they were only serving plates of charcuterie. But alas, our prayers have been answered and a restaurant has opened for dinner, Wednesdays to Sundays, under reservation. For a special treat, why not stay at one of their extravagant suites? As the weather warms, you can be sure we’ll be around to sip delicious cocktails from their bar, le Très Particulier. Come out, come out, wherever you are…

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Hotel Particulier, 23, avenue Junot, Pavillon D, 75018

01 53 41 81 40

Less is More Aux Deux Amis

They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, and this has never been more true than Aux Deux Amis in the 11e. This retro bar and bistro, with its blinding neon lights, wooden panel walls and minimalist decor, may leave you completely indifferent should you walk past at the wrong time. But there is more than meets the eye Aux Deux Amis. This tiny place is so popular in the evening, people are pouring out into the street, and we know why. Friendly service, fresh food at reasonable prices and more red lipstick on pretty girls than DSK could poke a stick at, this is the local you’ll wish you had in your neighbourhood. 20 euros will get you a couple of tasty, simple tapas and some vino. If you own a pair of plastic, thick frame glasses, this is the place to wear them. So bobo, so chic.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

Aux Deux Amis, 45 rue Oberkampf, 75011

01 58 30 38 13

La belle vie at La Bellevilloise

 

He who said the best things come in small packages obviously has never been to La Bellevilloise. Slightly off the beaten track in the 20e, La Bellevilloise was the first Parisian co-op, founded in 1877 to give the working class access to political education and culture. Today, it’s a multi-purpose space hosting concerts, theatre performances and festivals, as well as art exhibitions and conferences. The restaurant, an internal garden with its olive and palm trees, iron tables and sofas, is the perfect place for a jazzy Sunday brunch or an evening with friends to discover an independent artist. For more bite than a croque monsieur, there’s the club - who can resist a Big Bang Gang Party? I know I can’t. Life imitates art at La Bellevilloise.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

La Bellevilloise, 19-21 Rue Boyer, 75020 

01 46 36 07 07

All Roads Lead to La Fidelite

Name the top 5 branchouille restaurants in Paris, go… Ok, no need to make Rob Gordon lists to know that La Fidélité, in the buzzing 10e, is a favourite of the Parisian bobo crowd. The neon sign and proximity to the Gare de l’Est could be somewhat misleading, but once through the heavy curtains concealing La Fidélité from the outside world, you will find an unusually spacious, sober and elegant restaurant. The high ceilings, dim lights and ornate art nouveau mirrors (did I see art deco as well?) are a perfect contrast to the dark wooden floorboards and deep red booths, creating a warm and intimate space that takes you back in time. Expect to pay around 40 euros, and after your meal, follow the skinny jeans generation to the jukebox bar in the basement for the smoking hot installment of the evening… What came first, the music or the misery? Who cares – leave High Fidelity for La Fidélité.

Bisou bisou, Paris Bobo

La Fidélité, 12 rue de la Fidélité, 75010

01 47 70 19 34